Google Translate had no suggestions for the word ripassatela when transcribing Saturday’s pizza recipe: lavate bene la cicoria, scottatela in aqua bollente salata e poi ripassatela in padella…Cuocete in forno…sfornatela e aggiungete il formaggio tagliato finemente e la verdura ripassataNot being able to translate verbatim was troubling, but more haunting was the spectre of the word-stem at the supermarket where a bottle of Ripasso stared from the odd-bin. Chose to follow the greens and cheese vibe of the recipe by sauteing a large bunch of chard in olive oil with three chopped garlic cloves and a teaspoon of dried chilli, tossed the stems in at the end for crunch, then spread the mixture over molten gruyere cheese and pizza bianca base. Exorcised any demons by demolishing both pizza and wine.

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